Choose from a wide range of fuse types, including:

Blade Fuses – The most commonly used automotive fuse style, available in MINI, ATO/ATC, MAXI, Micro2, Micro3, and Low Profile Mini formats
Bolt-Down Fuses – Heavy-duty fuses designed for high-amperage circuits and power distribution modules
Cartridge Fuses – Ideal for tight enclosures or panel-mount applications
Glass & Ceramic Fuses – Used in classic vehicles and specialty industrial equipment
Industrial Fuses – For large-scale equipment and facility protection

Need variety or volume? Waytek also stocks fuse kits, fuse holders, fuse blocks, and accessories to help streamline installation and replacement. Our robust inventory supports everything from small-amp inline circuits to heavy-duty commercial vehicle power systems.

For more tips on using automotive fuses, see Fuses 101: What You Need to Know.

How do I tell if a car fuse is blown?

Spotting a blown fuse is easier than you might think—here’s how to check it:

Visual Inspection

Remove the fuse from the fuse box using a fuse puller or needle-nose pliers.

Hold it up to the light and look at the metal strip inside:

If the strip is intact, the fuse is good.

If it’s broken, melted, or burnt, the fuse is blown.

Use a Multimeter (for extra certainty)

Set the multimeter to continuity or ohms.

Touch the probes to both ends of the fuse:

If you get a reading (or hear a beep), the fuse is good.

If there’s no reading, it’s blown.

Common Symptoms of a Blown Fuse

Power windows, radio, or lights suddenly stop working.

Clicking sounds or flickering lights.

Burning smell near the fuse box

What are the different types of car fuses?

Car fuses come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and ratings to protect different electrical circuits in your vehicle. Here's a breakdown of the most common types:

Blade-Type Fuses (Most Common Today)

These are color-coded and easy to replace. They come in several sizes:

These are color-coded and easy to replace. They come in several sizes:

Other Fuse Types

Glass Tube Fuses (AGC): Found in older vehicles; cylindrical with metal caps.

Torpedo Fuses: Used in vintage European cars; cone-shaped ceramic body.

PAL Fuses: Rectangular cartridge fuses common in Japanese vehicles; bolt-on or plug-in.

High-Current Fuses: Used for power-hungry systems like starters or electric fans; rated up to 200 amps.

Circuit Breaker Fuses: Reusable; resettable like home breakers—ideal for frequently tripped circuits.

What is the difference between ATO and ATC fuses?

The “O” in ATO stands for “Open,” meaning the fuse element is visible from the bottom. This makes it easier to test without removing the fuse, but it’s more vulnerable to corrosion.

The “C” in ATC stands for “Closed,” meaning the fuse element is sealed inside the plastic housing. This helps prevent moisture and contaminants from interfering with the fuse’s performance.

How do I know what fuse to buy for my car?

Choosing the right fuse for your car is all about matching the type, size, and amperage rating to your vehicle’s electrical system. Here’s how to nail it:

Check your owner’s manual or fuse box diagram. It’ll list the fuse type (e.g., ATO, ATC, Mini, Micro2) and amp rating for each circuit. Fuse boxes are usually under the dashboard or hood.

Match the fuse type.Common types include:

Blade fuses: ATO, ATC, Mini, Micro2, Maxi

Glass tube fuses: Found in older vehicles

PAL fuses: Used in Japanese cars

Use the same shape and size as the original fuse.

Match the amp rating printed on the fuse and color-coded: Red = 10A, Blue = 15A, Yellow = 20A, Green = 30A, etc. Never use a fuse with a higher amp rating than specified—it can cause electrical damage or fire.

Consider the environment. For damp or high-vibration areas (like engine bays), use sealed fuses like ATC instead of ATO.

Use a fuse sizing formula (optional).

Buy from a trusted brand. Quality matters—cheap fuses may not blow properly when needed.

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